How to grow Anubias species

How to grow Anubias species

Anubias have long been a staple of the aquarium hobby. This shade-loving genus is named after the Egyptian god Anubis, lord of the underworld/shadowlands. Anubias are native to Africa - and there are many different species and cultivars available.

Anubias nana petite - a smaller variety of Anubias, here in the center, attached to driftwood. Even though this tank is not on CO2 injection, it grows well. It is a very popular plant in the aquarium hobby because it is relatively easy to grow.

Larger species include Anubias gigantea, Anubias afzelii, Anubias heterophylla, Anubias gracilis. These have leaves as long as the palm of your hand. Often larger species are sold as smaller, baby specimens, so be aware if your intention is to get a smaller plant.

Medium sized Anubias include Anubias barteria 'nana' and its many variants and Anubias coffeefolia. Their leaves reach around 8 - 10cm in length when fully grown.

Smaller Anubias species include Anubias nana 'petite' & its variants, Anubias 'Stardust'; these have leaves around 1.5 - 2 cm long, around the size of a smaller thumbnail. 

The smallest Anubias species include Anubias nana 'Pangolino", Anubias 'Chilli'; these have leaf sizes around 1cm to 2cm but are more narrow compared to Anubias 'petite'. 

Varigated varietals exist for most sizes. Popular ones on the market are Anubias white, Anubias 'Pinto' and Anubias 'petite white'.

Anubias nana 'petite' maintains a small, neat shape. These plants are grown in a non CO2 injected tank and are slightly smaller than those grown with CO2 injection.

Anubias white petite is a variegated white Anubias that stays very small. Its rarity means that it can be difficult to find and expensive to purchase. At 2hr Aquarist we have often grown Anubias planted directly onto the Aquasoil substrate. It is a popular myth among beginners that Anubias, Java fern and Bucephalandra do not grow well planted in substrate - the opposite is true - they actually grow better planted in soil than not. However, the rhizome should not be buried deep. In aquasoils where the top layers are loose, it is fine to bury the rhizome slightly to hold it in place.

Anubias species are all generally very hardy plants that are easy to grow in the aquarium - they can acclimate to a wide range of water parameters and are not demanding in terms of light, as they can be grown in shade. However, to keep them in good condition and algae-free over the long term, we must still meet their basic needs.

Smaller Anubias tend to be more delicate, and colored ones even more so.

Like most aquatic plants, they prefer clean, filtered water with low levels of organic waste - this keeps them algae free. They grow well on hardscape and do not need to be planted on the substrate. If planted on the substrate, their rhizomes should not be buried as this will cause the substrate to rot. They will root deeply into the substrate over time, which can make them difficult to move. Keeping them attached to the hardscape allows for easy repositioning.

Anubias barteri nana growing in soil. They grow very well in soil/aquasoil as long as the rhizome is not buried. They take up nutrients well through their roots like most other plants.
Although they will grow in tanks without CO2 injection, CO2 injection will give more robust, algae-resistant plants and increase growth rates significantly. Their nutrient requirements are low due to their slow growth rates, but to keep them growing well over the long term they need a comprehensive nutrient regimen - premature decay of old leaves and yellowing/off-colored leaves can be a sign of nutrient deficiency.

They are susceptible to BBA if exposed to too much direct flow, so keep them away from the immediate area of the filter outlet. Contrary to popular belief, they can be grown in very bright light - however, this will accelerate their growth rates and expose any weakness in their nutrient access. Although they can be attached to hardscape, they will grow very well with their roots in the substrate/soil as they can take up nutrients that way as well. When planting them in soil, keep the rhizome above the substrate line - burying the rhizome can lead to rot.

Anubias are popular with the aquascaping crowd because they grow well on wood and blend well with mosses and other epiphytes.

Key success factors

• Clean water and long term stable parameters.

• Higher light levels result in faster growth, but may result in increased algae. Lower light levels tend to be more stable.

• Anubias will grow with as little as 10 umols of PAR. Use them in shaded areas of the tank where other plants will not grow well.

• Full water column nutrient availability necessary for long-term health and robust plants/optimal shape. It takes months for Anubias species to show deficiencies in slow growing tanks.

Anubias are great for low-tech (non-CO2 injected) setups such as this. They can be attached to hardscape flexibly and are also shade tolerant.

How to propagate

Often the rhizome will naturally sprout separate growth heads after some time, and these can be cut from the main rhizome when they reach a suitable size.

The rhizome can also be divided with a sharp blade once it has reached a suitable length. Healthy specimens can be divided more finely, while unhealthy plants may disintegrate. You can use a blade or scissors to cut a longer rhizome into smaller pieces. Each piece will grow into a new plant. For a healthy rhizome of Anubias barteri nana, a longer rhizome can be divided into 4-5 cm segments; each segment should have a few leaves. For a healthy sample of Anubias nana petite, a longer rhizome can be divided into 2-3cm segments; each segment should have at least a few leaves.

Attaching Anubias species to hardscape

Anubias can be attached to hardscape using zip ties, string, or superglue. I usually use superglue myself because it is very convenient and quick. Use gel-type superglue; apply a small amount to the rhizome itself and press the plant against the hardscape for a few seconds (about 10 seconds). The bond should hold if the contact surface is adequate. This can even be done underwater. However, the glue will leave white marks on the hardscape.

Signs of deficiencies

Although Anubias are very hardy and can survive without additional supplementation, at least in the short term, they will sometimes run into nutrient deficiencies in the long term. This depends on what is in your tap water and whether your aquarium is producing an adequate, complete set of nutrients over the long term.

Yellowing of older leaves, pale new leaves, or obvious chlorosis, as shown in the picture below, are all signs of nutrient deficiency.

Buying tips

Plants that are very dark green indicate that the plants were grown in deeper shade, while lighter green plants were grown in farms with more light. The shade of green will vary depending on the light levels in your own tank.

Buying healthy plants makes a big difference. Avoid plants with yellowing leaves or soft/mushy leaves/stems. Plants should be relatively stiff (even those grown submerged). Uniform coloration is a good sign. With Anubias species, it can sometimes be difficult to visually tell the health of the plant, as they are quite hardy plants and sometimes show little outward sign even though the plants have been sitting on the shelves for too long. If you are experiencing a lot of melting at planting while other species in the same tank are doing well, you may have picked up a batch that has been in transit or packaging for too long. Buying from a different source may be a good idea.